家乡的榨油坊
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pic.app.jjxw.cn/static/publish/css/style.css?v=1605251010499" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=1605251010499"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 座落在九江市涌泉乡戴山村</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">的</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">寺下村，至今还保存</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">着</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">一间古老</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">而又</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">完好的手工榨油坊</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">该</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">榨油坊</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">建于</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">20世纪四五十年代，单层砖木结构，为加工茶籽油的作坊</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。这一</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">延续着原始榨油工具和传统技法的油坊，堪称民间手工榨油技艺的“活化石”</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。它</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">沿用传统的“烘</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">籽</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">、碾籽、蒸粉、包饼、上榨、插楔……撞榨</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">”等</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">多道工序，而且这些工序全部靠手工完成。现已成为一道独特的风景，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">已于</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">二0二0年入选九江市城区第二批历史建筑名录。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 走进</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">榨</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">油坊，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">便会</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">回想</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">起榨油师傅正在有条不紊地忙碌着，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">木碾、灶台、铁箍、榨</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">筒、铁锤</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">这几个物件，便串联</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">起</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">古法榨油的重要环节，看似简单，但每一道工艺都是传承上千年的技艺。每年冬季进行加工生产，加工工艺独具山乡特色，榨出的茶油浓郁醇香。 </span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> </span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">现介绍几种传统榨油技法的工序：</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 第一步：茶籽烘干</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">将从山上采摘回的茶籽球先晒干脱壳，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">准备</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">榨油时再将茶籽放入灶台烘干。目的是去除水份，烘干的标准是香而不焦，要求严格控制</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">灶</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">台火候的大小</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">这关系到榨出的油</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">是否</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">香而纯</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">一般由一</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">位</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">年纪大的老者负责烧火，还有一人负责不时翻拌茶籽。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 第二步：香籽碾粉（也叫茶枯）。将烘香烘干的茶籽放到木碾槽中碾碎</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">(槽底板镶有铁片）。木碾由牛拉动着碾架和铁碾砣在</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">碾盘上作圆周运动，人坐在碾上赶着牛，一颗颗茶籽</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">在</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">两个碾</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">砣</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">一圈圈滚动</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">的碾压下，不到一个小时就被碾成粉末。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 第三步</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">：</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">蒸茶粉（也叫蒸枯）。蒸枯是一门技术活，关系</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">着</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">出油率，蒸熟到什么程度完全要过硬师傅把关。蒸锅盛满水，锅上扣一个铁罩，铁罩上盖一个大布巾</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">蒸枯师</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">傅用一量桶装好枯粉，均匀地铺在布巾上，开始蒸枯，灶堂的火要烧得旺。蒸枯的秘诀</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">完全是凭师傅自己长年累月的实践经验所得，看水蒸汽打旋转，看枯的颜色吧。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 第四步：包饼（也叫包枯饼）。接下来就是考验师傅技巧的关键环节了</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">包枯饼，首先要用一把梳理干净的稻草草筋拦腰捏在手中，像变魔术似的一拧一揉，草筋如张开的折扇骨儿，又如盛开的花朵，均匀地垫在铁箍上，并沿箍再垫乱草衣，以防漏枯粉。蒸好了枯粉，师傅将布中四角揭起，将枯粉抖入有稻草筋的铁箍里，用手抹平后，随即人立在上面用脚踩实，一脚还拢草筋裹盖枯饼。裹好的枯饼摞起来，以便定型。哦，新裹的枯饼不结实，易破碎，拿动得用旋转倾斜式的巧劲，不是熟手</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">是</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">不行的。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 第五步：上榨。传统的榨筒一般是一棵大樟树凿空制成，横摆在榨油坊的显要位置。树的直径大约</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">1米才行，长大约3.5米。榨筒中空呈圆柱形，榨膛内（河口）的南北两面，各有一长方形相对直通口，约五尺长，宽约六寸。膛内的上下壁，左右端，都镶有生铁片，以防枯饼铁箍磨损木榨膛，膛内底部有油槽出口，榨筒横卧悬躺式离地1尺左右，用麻石支架起来，榨筒底下埋一</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">口油缸。裹好的枯饼装入榨筒时，每块枯饼上只用两个铁箍固定枯饼。枯饼上筒是按从西到东的顺序侧立榨筒内，一块紧挨一块，约十七八块</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">枯饼，最后用</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">圆</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">木垫靠紧枯饼，再用</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">檀木楔</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">块塞满</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">（</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">上下两排，边</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">长</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">为三寸的方木</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">楔</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">，也有薄片</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">楔</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">,</span></span> <span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">还有上下两个退木楔</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">）</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">,然后插入四</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">五</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">尺长的大撞</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">楔</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">（</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">铁头帽</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">）</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">，大撞</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">楔</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">也</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">是</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">上下两块。碗口粗1丈来长的大撞杆（铁头帽</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">）</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">悬吊着，三人打撞，一人</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">捉</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">撞头，另两人相对而立各持帮</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">耳合甩</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">撞。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 第六步，撞</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">榨</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">（也叫开榨）。小时的我最爱看打撞</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">好玩极了，撞杆中</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">间</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">的两个人像跳摆脚舞似的，单手握着帮耳用力向后送杆，越用力，撞</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">杆</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">距离拉得越开，撞击力就越大；捉撞头的人要沉着冷静，得像猴子一样敏捷迅速，后退前进，还得抓住撞杆，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">扔</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">过头顶，还得瞄准撞</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">楔</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">“</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">伊呀</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">——</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">咚隆</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">”</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">声震数里，同时香喷</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">喷金</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">黄色闪闪发亮的茶油，</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">“</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">滋滋滋</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">……</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">淅</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">沥沥</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">”地</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">冒出来，在“</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">咚</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">、</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">咚、</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">咚”的木</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">榨</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">声中，浓郁的茶籽油那特有的清香，也慢慢向四处弥漫</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">我们小孩看了，觉得好稀奇，好有趣味。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 两大撞楔打</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">到</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">极限，就停歇一会儿，首</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">先</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">调整铁箍，用小铁铲</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">、</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">锤子敲拔铁箍的间隙，再退撞楔，加木楔，然后插大撞楔，打撞挤压，如此反复。榨干头道枯饼，立即取枯饼出筒，敲铁箍，扒草筋，砸碎枯，再碾枯，再蒸枯，再裹饼，再装枯饼入筒，一气呵成。所以，一天的工作非常紧张，但师傅们</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">却</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">是乐此不疲。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 茶油是优质食用植物油，野生于山，汲日月精华天成，享有“东方橄榄油“美誉，食之香味浓郁。每年霜降过后，是油茶果成</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">熟期，山民上山采摘油茶果，拿去压榨茶油。香浓的茶油载着浓浓的乡愁，成为我们内心深处的回味与怀念。</span></span></p><p class="s5"><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15"> 随着现代机械化操作越来越多地应用于农产品加工，农产品原始的手工加工方式逐渐被人们淡忘。千年古法榨油工艺，而今很多人认为这样的榨油方式，效率低下，浪费人力，应该被陶汰，那曾经赖以生存的手艺，保住了味道，却追求不了效率</span></span><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">。</span></span><a name="_GoBack"></a><span class="s4"><span class="bumpedFont15">千百年来，养活了一代又一代人的油坊，这也不禁让我们反思，这样的古法工艺，该如何传承下去</span></span><span class="s6">？（</span><span class="s7"><span class="bumpedFont15">戴洪应</span></span> ）</p> <!----></div>
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